We are born comfort animals, and the warmth of a car or bus is more appealing than sitting on the seat and having winter close to your body. It’s easy to forget all the time you save and the energy you gain when you cycle. In cities, commuting by bike in winter actually saves more time. More people choose public transport even though delays are more frequent. In addition, you often find that you can’t get a seat, and have to wait for several departures before you get home standing like a sieve in a barrel…
Most municipalities do a good job of ploughing cycle paths, and winter offers fantastic light. Especially as the darkness of night is replaced by dawn or as evening approaches.
Here are some simple tips to make winter cycling a wonderful experience:

Do you have a suitable bike?

The answer is probably yes. The vast majority of bicycles become winter bikes simply by changing to studded tyres. Some people buy their own bike for winter use, or use their old bike when they’ve bought a new one, to save the good bike from salt and winter dirt. Choosing a bike is very much about how far and how often you cycle, road conditions, what you use the bike for and how confident you are on the bike.

The bike for winter use should have

Studded tyres
Front and rear lights (required in the dark)
Good mudguards
Plenty of oil on the chain and the rest of the drive train
Front and rear lights are mandatory!
Reflectors make you visible in the dark time

Bike type

The vast majority of types are still suitable as winter bikes if they are equipped with studded tyres and there is not too much snow. You should be aware of:

Straight handlebars give better control than racing handlebars.
Choose tyres with a little extra volume.

With more tyre volume, you can use slightly less air pressure, which gives you a larger contact patch with the ground and less tracking if you get to areas with snow or slush.
Gravel/mixed-use bikes (a more powerful version of a road bike with drop handlebars and slightly slacker angles that make it more stable and comfortable) work well for those who feel confident with drop handlebars. First check that the bike has space for studded tyres and that they don’t interfere with the mudguards. Racing bikes don’t usually have room for studded tyres and are not recommended unless the roads are bare and dry.

Size of wheels

Large wheels provide a better contact patch and feel safer for most people!

The majority of new bikes today are 28 inch (hybrid and gravel) or 29 inch (mountain bike). Mountain bikes with 26-inch wheels work well, but don’t offer the same control as the big wheels on the most difficult terrain. However, it’s more common to have an old 26″ in the garage that’s fine to wear out. With powerful studded tyres and less air, comfort is improved.

What you want to use your bike for and your cycling skills will determine the type of bike you choose, but as I said, most bike variants work perfectly well in winter too.

Studded tyres

The more studs, the better the grip on ice.
Large volume gives better control.
Make sure you have space in the frame and under mudguards.
Good tyres are the recipe for high safety – they are worth the investment.
Studded tyres must be run in, preferably on asphalt (recommended minimum 50 km).

Change to studded tyres when the first night of frost approaches. If the bike is stored in a cold place, it’s a good idea to bring the wheels and tyres to room temperature when changing them. Many winter tyres are tight to change, and become even tighter when it’s cold. Warmer tyres are more compliant, and warm fingers work better. In general, many studs provide better grip. For off-road cycling and cycling on winter roads with snow, we recommend as many studs as possible for maximum safety – preferably around 300 studs on a mountain bike. At the same time, tyres with many studs are heavier and offer greater resistance, so this is a decision that each individual must make. At the same time, remember that the training effect is greater with a slightly heavier bike ;-). For electric bikers, tyre weight is less important.

An investment in good tyres that provide greater safety is worth it.

On bikes with narrower tyres and if you primarily ride on roads with occasional ice and snow, about 200 studs per tyre are sufficient. They normally sit well on the ice, but as always, it’s important to adjust your speed to the conditions. Some people choose to cycle all or part of the winter without studded tyres, but this is not advisable if there is a risk of hitting ice on the journey. Bicycle tyres without studs on an icy surface with a small patch of snow on top are difficult to see and almost impossible to get over without hitting the ground unless you have extremely good control of the bike.

Studded tyres are also available for children’s bikes, children’s trailers and folding bikes, in 20 and 24 inches.

Winter cycling with electric bikes

Electric bikes are perfect for winter cycling.
The motor provides a smoother ride => the bike is stable and you avoid spinning.
The battery should be charged in dry conditions and at room temperature.
Apply battery grease or Vaseline to the contacts/battery terminals.

With an electric bike, the difference between summer and winter cycling is smaller than with a conventional bike. This is because the motorised assistance provides an even pedal stroke. You don’t have to stand up on steep slopes – which can easily lead to spinning on slippery surfaces. With an auxiliary engine, the increased weight of the tyres doesn’t mean much either. At the same time, remember that the range is reduced in the cold and with increased resistance, so you should expect more frequent landings. Charging the battery should take place inside where it is dry and warm. Charging in cold or damp environments is not recommended. Moisture can cause the charger to be damaged – for example in a damp garage. The battery terminals are susceptible to corrosion from salt and moisture. A tip is to apply battery grease or petroleum jelly to the terminals to prevent corrosion and poor contact.

Winter clothing

Wool on the inside is always a winner.
Thin hat, buff or Finnish cap under the helmet.
Buff, scarf or similar around the neck.
Windproof jacket with long back and high collar.
Overtrousers or rain trousers with narrow legs.
Warm windproof/waterproof gloves or mittens.

A windproof jacket with breathable material in the back provides good protection against the cold, while also providing good ventilation. Preferably choose a jacket with a long back, long sleeves and a high collar. Zips up and down are a great way to adjust the warmth.
A pair of winter trousers with narrower legs avoids your legs coming into conflict with the chain. Overtrousers with a windproof front or rain trousers to avoid splashing if the road is wet will do the job. Feel free to wear cycling trousers with padding underneath if you’re travelling long distances.
For shorter trips and everyday transport, lightweight shell trousers and a jacket work well over normal clothing.
Finding the right amount of clothing is more difficult in winter. The most important thing is not to freeze. But don’t dress too warmly either, especially if you’re travelling long distances. If you stay dry, it’s easier to keep warm at the end of the ride.
With a buff, scarf or similar to prevent your neck from being directly exposed to the cold, it’s easier to regulate the heat with the zip in your jacket without exposing your neck to freezing air.

Wear windproof gloves/mittens with good cuffs. Without good cuffs, your wrists are exposed and your fingers get cold.
If it’s extra cold, hoof gloves (two and two fingers in the same compartment) allow you to brake with two fingers while maintaining a good grip on the handlebars. Mittens are fine, but your grip on the handlebars will deteriorate when braking if you keep your whole hand on the brakes.
Wool socks are always the warmest.

Shoes

Winter cycling shoes or shoe covers for summer cycling shoes
Warm winter shoes or foot bags on regular shoes
Wool soles if the shoes have space
Tight shoes cause cold feet

Shoe covers are an advantage if you wear cycling shoes and want to stay dry and warm.
There are good warm cycling shoes for winter use that, although expensive, can be worth the investment. However, if you wear the same cycling shoes in both summer and winter, thin insoles with wool and thermal foil can work well. If you don’t have room for other insoles, a heat wrap/survival blanket (available from your local pharmacy) placed under the original insoles will work well.
Remember that tight shoes impede blood circulation and cause cold feet. Instead, use thinner woollen socks that give you plenty of room. Good shoe covers, preferably with a fleece lining, will take off too much of the cold.
If you use platform pedals and regular shoes, we recommend foot bags that you put on over your regular shoes. They are easy to remove and keep your shoes dry and clean. There are some fairly lightweight variants that take up little space while doing the job, and are perfect in combination with shell clothing if you cycle with normal clothing underneath. Water-repellent warm winter shoes are also a good option.
On slippery surfaces, there are often situations where you need to get off the pedals quickly to support your foot. Choose platform pedals if you don’t feel confident clicking out of bicycle pedals.

Running in studded tyres

It is highly recommended to break in new studded tyres by riding on dry asphalt for a few miles. During the break-in period, you should avoid sudden braking or skidding. This allows the studs to adhere properly to the tyre. If you don’t break in, you risk losing the studs and the tyre will lose grip.

Maintaining your bike through the winter

Wash/rinse your bike frequently.
Flushing with lukewarm water is best, but bucket rinsing also works well.
Oil the chain and drivetrain frequently and liberally with thin oil.
Brake pads wear out more – check and replace before the winter season.

Wear in winter is higher than in summer. This is mainly due to the salt used in winter maintenance, as well as sand, gravel and asphalt dust. All of this puts a strain on the bike’s drivetrain. It is an advantage if you store your bike indoors. If you have access to a hose, it is recommended that you hose down your bike regularly. A bucket of lukewarm water poured over the drivetrain (gears, cassette and bottom bracket) also works well. Feel free to use a bicycle bottle to flush the exposed areas. Oil the chain a lot and often. Use a thin oil, preferably a spray that can withstand the cold better. This will help the chain to glide smoothly and the gears to work better, making the drivetrain last longer. Make sure you don’t get oil on the brake discs if you have disc brakes, or the rims if you have rim brakes. With a good grease remover, all the mess will be washed off when you do your spring cleaning, and

brake pads wear more in winter. We recommend going into the winter season with new brake pads. Then you probably won’t have to think about it until spring is here again.

Enjoy winter on two wheels!

Tunnels in Norway

Del

Related posts

Plan your cycling holiday 2025

Features in SykkelNorge

Winter cycling